Punta Chivato

Posted:  February 27, 2024
👁 1930   9

There should be no surprise when I tell you that cruising fosters a special community. We cross paths with so many like minded individuals, spending anywhere from hours to months together if our plans align. When we inevitably sail our separate ways, we are grateful that we are able to stay connected through social media to cheer each other on, but there’s also a more special and intimate bond that endures: experiencing each other’s journeys vicariously. I felt this bond when we sailed into an anchorage that we only visited because our dear friends Jay and Kenna from SV Sitka had recommended it.SV Kessel and Avocet Buddy Boating

Punta Chivato

Punta Chivato is a picturesque and relatively secluded coastal area located in the state of Baja California Sur, Mexico. Situated on the eastern shore of the Baja California Peninsula along the Sea of Cortez, Punta Chivato offers stunning natural beauty with its sandy beaches, turquoise waters, rocky cliffs and most recently… abandoned resort exploration. We arrived in the afternoon, setting our hook while undersail alongside Kessel and I’Mua. “Look at these REAL sailors over here” our friends chirped over the VHF. “They think they are SOOOO much better than us just because they didn’t use dinosaur squeezings (diesel)”. Chris and I laughed at our friend’s commentary while we went through the motions of anchoring, absolutely ecstatic that we didn’t have to use the engine the entire sail from Santa Rosalia.

Reid was quick to hop in his dinghy and float over, using his sweater as a sail. Although we could tell the temperatures were starting to change, there was still a chill to the air, especially when the wind picked up. Not to mention, we saw some clouds rolling in that would surprise us with rain showers that night, which was music to our ears as we drifted off to sleep in another new place to call “home”.

I'mua, Kessel and Avocet

I’mua, Kessel and Avocet

Work and Play

Cleo cat watching the rain

Cleo cat watching the rain

I woke up to the last “pitter patter” sound of rain on our deck and the warm smell of fresh coffee. It was 6:00 am, and we were ready to tackle the day. Contrary to belief, we are not totally funded by YouTube, social media, our blog site, or internet “fame” in general but have to actually work to keep the FUN in FUNding. Although Chris can’t work remotely during cruising season, my business is 100% remote which allows me to have some pretty epic office views but also means that I sometimes have to hang back on the boat to get work done while everyone else gets to have fun. (Lin Pardey interviewed me about my business once. Check it out HERE)

I prepared my office space with a steaming cup of coffee beside my laptop while Chris made his exit with Peter aboard Jaba. The pair buzzed off, leaving Avocet to be a sanctuary of productivity which eventually attracted Reid who was determined to get some more content out for his channel, Odyssey Alternative. His sweet pup Ellie curled up beside Cleo, while the humans carried on with silly work things. If only we could all have the care-free life of a boat pet. Eventually, Reid was too distracted by the wind and left to go kite with Peter while Chris was returned to Avocet to make lunch. I had one last weekly meeting, for a ski resort of all things, before I was free to explore and thanks to the lack of snowfall it was a very short video call.

Abandoned Resort

Punta Chivato was not on our original list of places to visit on our sail down Baja, but when I saw our friends’ YouTube video about this place I KNEW we had to follow their wake and check it out! Kenna and I share an affinity for many things, abandoned places being one of them, and she was right to give this spot the stamp of approval. The shoreline was decorated with pristine shells of all sizes in an insane abundance making it incredibly hard to not fill my pockets with the earthly treasures. While the boys messed around with kiting, I walked the beach and settled at a tidepool to watch the crabs and other sea life. Tidepools will always grab my attention and put my ADHD brain at ease while I watch the consistent ebb and flow of the ocean breathing life across the pockets of water that hold entire worlds. I was so distracted by a large crab crawling across a rock that I didn’t notice Chris sneak up behind me.

“¡Ay, Dios mío!” I exclaimed as he gently announced his presence. The crab scattered away and I nearly dropped my phone in the water while Chris laughed at my reaction. “Sorry, did I disturb you?” He asked through his laughter. Together we walked along the shore until we came to the foot of Posada De Las Flores, the luxury seaside resort that was shockingly abandoned.

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POSADA DE LAS FLORES
For many years, the hotel Posada de las Flores was a favored vacation spot by celebrities such as John Wayne who found the allure of its spectacular landscapes and captivating deep blue waters mesmerizing. The hotel was also visited by oceanographer and filmmaker Jacques Cousteau, who baptized the Sea of Cortez as “The World’s Aquarium”. Despite its associations with glamor, the ambiance at Posada de las Flores evoked a sense of contrast, akin to scenes from “The Shining,” albeit against the backdrop of the Baja desert instead of the dead of winter. The only guests checked in to the hotel are the ghosts and desert creatures that haunt the vacant rooms, and the vultures that keep a close eye on the grounds. So, how did a place of luxury become abandoned?

As a Crime Junkie I did my best investigation to dig up what I could. Chris and I noticed a stack of newspapers in the old com room, dated September 2018 so clearly whatever had happened to the place had gone down within the past 6 years. Back aboard Avocet I scoured the internet, asking forums, looking up old blog posts, and trying to connect the dots – but it looked like this mystery wanted to remain unsolved.

Here is another resources on the history of the resort: THIS one is CRAZY!

However, what I did learn was that the hotel was last purchased by an Italian businessman who owned another luxury property in Loreto by the same name. There were a few records of some water zoning issues which brought me abruptly to a dead end in my research, but after reading a bit more about this particular businessman I read between the lines… and I’m sure you can too. What I do know is that the hotel is for sale, so if you are in the market for a project check it out: HERE

As we walked through the resort and carefully examined what was left to the elements, I couldn’t help but wonder if Kenna’s attention was drawn to the same details or if we perhaps picked up the same shells and tossed them back. I knew for a fact that we had both sat in the same rocking chair that overlooked the sea, and in that moment I felt a wave of gratitude for my little “Seaster”. Long distance, nomadic friendships can be funny like that. Sometimes your paths cross, and other times you follow in each others wake. I find comfort in knowing that no matter how far we sail away from each other, we will always share special connections like this.

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Gosh darn it Peter

Moving On

Back on the beach Chris and I watched Peter and Reid try to capture the wind to kiteboard. They inevitably gave up due to the finicky wind, so we just hung out and enjoyed the water and sunshine. Although Peter and I had secretly made a pact a few hours prior to persuade Chris to stay one more night, all of our promises vanished in the wind after Peter had his fourth beer. “You know what? Let’s GO! The wind is light and from the right direction, let’s move on!” I gave him the death stare but the harsh feelings didn’t last – in fact, I was grateful for the change in plans.

We sailed off the hook at 6:30, with our course set for Punta Pulpito. Peter got a head start with the help of his engine, and Reid was close behind us. Our little armada moved slowly, but it made savoring the moments that much sweeter. As we chatted back and forth on the VHF, I kicked back and enjoyed the most intoxicating sky full of stars that gave the glistening sea of diamonds a run for its money. These were the moments we live for: fair winds, good friends, and mother natures pure beauty.

Fair Winds,

Marissa (and Chris and Cleo)




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3 Comments

  1. Ken

    Day dreaming of renovating that… Actually, just fishing on the beach, that’s my kind of thing. They don’t list the price they’re asking…. 1 million pesos?

    Reply
  2. Captain Sendypants

    🙌🏼
    🤪

    Reply
    • SV Avocet

      your username is cracking me up

      Reply

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